The simple Duck Necessities...
New to Ducks/Ducklings? Very exciting ! Here is some information in order to get a good start at caring for your ducks : shelter, heat, nutrition, water, love.
Shelter: In addition to extreme weather, protect your livestock from predators, including your pet dog or cat. I'm blessed with dogs that I can trust with the ducks and ducklings without any supervision (It took some training).
Nighttime hunters include: fox, raccoon, owl, skunk, coyote, bobcat, opossum, weasels, snakes, rats. Daytime hunters include : hawks, the neighborhood cat, snapping turtles, large mouth fish like pike, walleye, bass, trout, catfish. Egg thieves : skunk, snake, rat, blue jay and crow. More on predators at the following link from Kansas City's eXtension.
While they are ducklings, I have them in the house in a rabbit cage until they outgrow the cage. Then they move to XL plastic dog crates. Some people use pre-made coops from the farm store, tool sheds kits, or opt to build their own. Be creative with items you already have around the farm. The key is to completely secure all six sides, including a floor. Some predators will dig under and get in the coop if you have a dirt floor. Raccoons also have the opposable thumb and will open cabinet doors; make sure your coop door is raccoon proof.
Inspect your coop, fencing and enclosures regularly and mend as soon as a problem is observed. My ducklings spend their days in a roofed enclosure and spend their nights in the crate. My adults get to roam the fenced yard in the daytime and also get tucked in at night. Most predators will hunt at dusk and dawn or in the dark of night. I move morning rush and tuck in time as the sun cycles thru the season. Put out a game cam or live traps if you find predators to be a problem. The cam will give you more information on what type of predators you are dealing with and what time they roam your territory.
Heat (Farenheit): when in the incubator they are at 100 degrees (or thereabouts), every week after hatch, you can lower the temperature 5 degrees, so two weeks is 90. You have to make sure ambient temps are appropriate for the age, so keep the heater lamp the first 4-8 weeks as needed until they fully acquire their true feathers. You can forgo the heat lamp if you are watching the weather and making sure the temperature stay at a safe level (+/- 5 degrees). Keep your adult birds cool in extreme heat with shade areas, swimming pools and a mister and warm in the extreme cold to prevent frost bite. I'm in Central Texas, so I haven't had any major cold to worry about. Their crates are in the garage and I supplement with a fan in the summer and a space heater in below freezing weather. They also get additional "daylight" in the winter to increase the likelihood of egg production during the slow season.
Nutrition: The right feed at the right age, with the proper niacin for waterfowl.
I started here with the resources from the hatchery where I purchased my first day old ducklings. They have a nutritional chart for ducks and geese. http://www.metzerfarms.com/NutritionalRequirements.cfm
I found a local feed available at my feed store for a reasonable price that has the 4 different cycles of life : Duckling, Maintenance, Grower and Laying rations. The difference between Maintenance and Grower is the maintenance is for birds you plan to see to adulthood, grower is for birds that you plan to see to the freezer.
Niacin is essential for ducklings as they grow really really fast. not enough niacin will create leg issues like slipped tendons and splayed legs. There are two main sources of niacin readily available: nutritional yeast flakes and brewers yeast.
Many people raise ducks without ever supplementing with niacin as the feed they get has a sufficient amount, but not all feed stores carry duck specific feed.
Too much protein can cause angel wing.
Not enough calcium will cause soft eggs and could also cause peeling bill.
Not enough vitamin A can cause oil gland malfunctions but an overdose of A can cause liver damage.
Water: Most domestic ducks are just fine without a pond. They need water deep enough to dunk their heads in order to clean their eyes and nostrils. When young, they are especially susceptible to drowning, so you want to make sure their drinking water container is small enough to prevent them using it for swimming. Swimming water is something you can introduce later. In the bathtub, just enough water that they can stand in it, for a limited time and supervised until they have their real feathers. Check for signs of exhaustion and hypothermia and adjust as needed. Use water that matches their temperature requirements for the age of the bird.
Love: The more you care, the more you research how to do better at caring for them and troubleshoot any problems. If you want friendly ducks, you have to work hard at spending time with them taking it slow so they get used to you as a non-threat. Ideally, you hatch yourself and are their natural mom/dad, but that's not always possible. Ducks that eat out of your hand are an exception, not the norm. you have to establish trust over time. Ducks are trainable and herd-able with patience and consistency. Establish a routine that works for you and they will learn what you expect. Sunflower sprouts, figs and peas are a good way to bribe them to go where you want them once they figure out those things taste great and aren't going to hurt them. They are the bottom of the food chain and are generally scared of anything they aren't familiar with. Expect panic if you change things around on them.
Cleanliness: Ducks are messy. They mix their food in their water and then defecate in it, and continue to drink it. They drill holes in mud puddles and sift thru any running or standing water. It is important to not get more ducks than your property can handle. They will eat everything down to the ground, a little at a time. If you can paddock, that is ideal to give parts of the land a chance to rejuvenate. Do what you can to keep their areas from developing mold and bacteria by letting it dry completely on occasion.
